🍴Food & Pintxos
Bar ZerukoCreative pintxos, never a tourist trap. Calle 31 de Agosto.
Bar TxepetxaLegendary for anchovy pintxos. Old town staple since 1976.
La Bretxa MarketGo in the morning for breakfast. Very local, very good.
NarruExcellent modern Basque cuisine. Great value — good splurge dinner option.
KokotxaMichelin-starred, intimate, exceptional. For a serious dinner night.
🏙️Sights & Walks
La Concha Beach & PromenadeOne of the most beautiful city beaches in Europe. Walk the full arc at sunset.
Monte UrgullEasy 30-min climb from the old town. Panoramic bay views, zero crowds.
Parte Vieja (Old Town)Medieval streets, pintxos bars on every corner. Best in the evening.
Gros NeighbourhoodYounger, local feel. Great coffee and the Zurriola surf beach.
🚗Day Trip: Hondarribia
Hondarribia30 min east. A tiny medieval fishing village on the French border — charming and great for a long lunch at the port.
Hermandad de PescadoresThe fishermen's guild restaurant. Some of the best grilled fish you'll eat anywhere.
Walled Historic QuarterMedieval walls, colourful balconies, cobbled streets. Walkable in under an hour.
StayParte Vieja or Gros — best base for food and walking
NightsMon & Tue
Car PickupWed morning — city centre rental offices
Next StopLa Rioja (Laguardia) — ~1.5 hrs south
🍷Wine & Bodegas
Bodegas Gómez CruzadoHaro, ~20 min from Laguardia. Boutique, intimate, exceptional. ~€20/head. Book ahead.
Marqués de RiscalFrank Gehry-designed winery near Elciego (~15 min). The titanium building alone is extraordinary. Tours and tasting available.
Underground Cellars, LaguardiaThe whole village sits on a network of wine caves. Several families open their cellars for informal tastings.
🏛️Medieval & History
Laguardia Walled VillageOne of the best-preserved medieval walled towns in Spain. Car-free streets, 12th-century walls, sweeping vineyard views.
Church of Santa María de los ReyesRemarkable 14th-century polychrome portico — one of the finest examples of medieval polychrome sculpture in Europe. Free entry.
Torre AbacialThe fortified church tower. Climb up for panoramic views over the Rioja valley and vineyards.
🍽️Where to Eat
Restaurante AmelibiaInside the village walls. Traditional Riojan cooking, good value, excellent local wine list.
Taberna El FabulistaRelaxed wine bar tucked inside the walls. Great snacks, local pours, no-rush atmosphere.
Restaurante Los CañosGood local spot for grilled meats and Riojan lamb. Casual and unpretentious.
StayInside Laguardia walls — small hotels and casas rurales
NightsWed
From SS~1.5 hrs south on the AP-68
Next DayThu: north → Gaztelugatxe → Cangas de Onís (~3.5–4 hrs)
Thursday · En Route
⛪Gaztelugatxe — Day Stop
Gaztelugatxe HermitageA sea-stack islet connected to the mainland by a stone bridge and 241 steps. Views from the top are extraordinary. Allow 1.5–2 hrs. Free but timed — book at gaztelugatxe.eus weeks ahead.
Basque Coastal Road (BI-3101)Continue west on this cliff road after Gaztelugatxe — one of the most dramatic coastal drives in Spain.
Leave Laguardia9am — beat the crowds
Laguardia → Gaztelugatxe~1 hr north
Gaztelugatxe → Cangas~2–2.5 hrs west along coast
Total drive day~3.5–4 hrs including stop
🏔️Mountains & Nature
Fuente Dé Cable Car~45 min from Cangas. 800m vertical ascent in 4 min onto a wildflower plateau at 1,800m. Book online — queues build by 11am in June.
Potes VillageMountain village at the foot of the Picos. 15th-century tower, medieval streets, good lunch stop on the way back from Fuente Dé.
Cares Gorge1km sheer walls. A short walk from Poncebos gives dramatic viewpoints without the full 12km hike.
Covadonga Sanctuary15 min from Cangas. A basilica built into a cliff with a sacred cave beneath. Glacial lakes (Lagos de Covadonga) above. Easy and stunning.
🌊Coast & Beaches
Llanes~40 min. One of the prettiest medieval coastal towns in Asturias — intact walls, small harbour, and the famous painted cubes (Cubos de la Memoria).
Playa de ToróSheltered cove near Llanes. Not crowded in early June, dramatic green cliffs, clear water.
Ribadesella~35 min. Small port town where a river meets the sea. Lovely estuary walk, good coffee, quayside old quarter.
Playa de Santa MarinaLong sandy beach at the mouth of the Sella river. Good for a swim or afternoon walk.
🏛️Culture & History
Oviedo Old Town~1 hr from Cangas. Genuinely beautiful and barely touristy. One of the finest historic city centres in northern Spain.
Cathedral of San Salvador9th century with a UNESCO-listed Holy Chamber (Cámara Santa) containing Spain's most significant Christian relics. ~€8 entry.
Roman Bridge, Cangas de OnísThe 1st-century bridge right in town with a hanging cross. The symbol of Cangas — beautiful at dusk.
Gijón — Cimadevilla Quarter~30 min from Oviedo. Historic fishing quarter on a headland, good seafront promenade and relaxed cafe scene.
🍺Food & Cider
Sidrería El Lagar de AladinoNear Oviedo. The real Asturian cider experience — cider poured from height, enormous grilled steaks, loud and joyful. Go for lunch.
Sidrerías, GijónGijón is full of cider houses. If you end up there, just walk into any on Calle Begoña.
CachopoAsturian stuffed veal — a slab of veal filled with ham and cheese, then breaded. Try it at any local restaurant in Cangas. Enormous. Delicious.
Queso CabralesLocal blue cheese aged in mountain caves. Buy it at any market in the Picos area — pairs perfectly with local cider.
StayCangas de Onís or a nearby casa rural — look for 2 ensuite rooms
NightsThu · Fri · Sat · Sun
Picos / Fuente Dé~45 min — go early, book cable car online
Llanes & Coast~40 min east
Oviedo~1 hr west
Covadonga~15 min — easy half-morning
Getting to Madrid — Monday
Option A · Recommended
Drive Direct
Cangas → Madrid ~5 hrs. Drop the one-way car in Madrid. Leave by 9am, arrive for the evening.
Option B · Saves Money
Back to Bilbao + Train
Drive to Bilbao ~3 hrs, drop car (cheaper rate), fast train to Madrid ~5 hrs. Long day but avoids one-way surcharge.
Option C · Fastest
Fly from Asturias
Asturias Airport (OVD) is ~1 hr from Cangas. Multiple Iberia/Vueling daily flights to Madrid. Often the cheapest all-in — check early.
Things to Know
Gaztelugatxe
Free entry but timed slots — book at gaztelugatxe.eus the moment you fix your dates. Weekday visits in early June are much quieter.
Wineries
Both Gómez Cruzado and Marqués de Riscal require advance booking — ~€20–30/head. Riscal is the architectural wow; Gómez Cruzado is more intimate.
Fuente Dé Cable Car
Book at telefericodefuentede.com — queues build by 11am. Go early. Take a layer — the top is cold even in June.
Early June
Ideal timing. Green, warm but not hot, manageable crowds. Avoid the coast on Saturday afternoons.
Where to Stay in Cangas
Search for a casa rural with 2 ensuite rooms — far better value than hotels. Expect €80–120/room/night.
Food Rule
Eat your main meal at lunch — menú del día (3 courses + wine) is €12–18 everywhere. Save the splurge evenings for San Sebastián.